Chapter 25 Oily Skin
Oily skin is a challenge for the dermatologist since there is a fine balance between removing enough sebum to get rid of facial shine while not inducing temporary skin dehydration. Many patients with oily skin are tempted to use strong detergent cleansers to remove sebum; however, the intercellular lipids are also damaged, yielding the appearance of dry skin. It is not possible for a cleanser to separate between sebum and intercellular lipids, thus a cleanser should be selected that minimizes barrier damage. Barrier damage is a problem created by many acne medications that contain skin irritants such as benzoyl peroxide or retinoids. Table 25.1 lists some of the cosmeceutical ingredients that might be helpful in products designed for oily skin.
Table 25.1 Cosmeceutical actives for oily skin
| Cosmeceutical | Effects on skin physiology | Patient selection comments |
| Niacinamide | Reduces amount of sebum collected on skin surface | Used topically in oil-reducing moisturizers |
| Polymer-absorbing beads | Bead uses van der Waals forces to absorb and hold oil in polymer sphere | Used in moisturizer to hold and absorb oil that reaches the skin surface |
| Salicylic acid |
