Chapter 27 Acne
Acne can be treated both with topical and oral medications that may fall into either the prescription or over-the-counter (OTC) categories. Cosmeceuticals, of course, are OTC products that can alter some of the mechanics of acne formation. It is also possible that some cosmeceutical ingredients may even cause comedogenic acne. Substances that appear on the lists of comedogenic ingredients include cocoa butter, isopropyl myristate, industrial quality mineral oil, industrial quality petrolatum, and vegetable oils. No current cosmetic manufacturer would consider using anything but cosmetic grade mineral oil and petrolatum. Industrial grades are cheaper, but may also contain tar contaminants. These tar contaminants are comedogenic, possibly accounting for some of the older reports regarding the comedogenicity of mineral oil and petrolatum. However, these data are quite outdated and no longer pertinent to modern formulations. For all practical purposes, the concept of acne cosmetica is no longer germane.
The cosmeceuticals that are useful adjuvants in the treatment of acne are listed in Table 27.1