1. Stopper knot—a knot tied at the end of a rope to keep something from slipping off the rope (e.g., figure-8 knot)

2. End-of-line knot—a knot used to form a loop or other construction in the end of a rope to anchor, tie in, or attach the rope to something (e.g., double bowline knot)

3. Midline knot—a knot used to form a loop in the middle of the rope for clipping into, grasping, or bypassing a piece of damaged rope (e.g., butterfly knot)

4. Knots to join two ropes—a knot used to connect two ropes of equal or unequal diameter (e.g., double fisherman’s bend)

5. Safety knot—a final knot tied into the tail of the rope after the original knot is tied to keep the original knot from deforming or unraveling (e.g., barrel knot)

6. Hitch—a knot that is tied around something, which conforms to the shape of the object around which it is tied and that does not keep its shape when the object around which it is tied is removed (e.g., Prusik hitch)

7. Tied loop—a knot that forms a fixed eye or loop in the end of a rope (e.g., bowline knot)

1. The working end of the rope is the section used to tie or rig the knot.

2. The standing part of the rope is the section not actively used to form the knot or rigging.

3. The running end of the rope is the free end.

4. A line is a rope in use.

5. A bight of rope is formed when the rope takes a U-turn on itself so that the running end and standing end run parallel to each other. The U portion, where the rope bends, is referred to as the bight.

6. A loop of rope is made by crossing a portion of the standing end over or under the running end. Note that a loop closes, as compared with a bight. Many knots that form a loop from a bight in the standing part of the rope are named something on a bight, such as figure-8 on a bight.

7. The tail of a rope is the (usually) short, unused length of rope that is left over once the knot is tied.

Stopper Knots (Figs. 60-1 and 60-2)

A stopper knot is typically tied into the end of a rope to prevent the rope from exiting the system (e.g., tying a stopper on the end of a rappel line to prevent the rappeller from rappelling off the end).

End-of-Line Knots (Figs. 60-3 to 60-6)

These knots form a loop or bight in the end of the rope. The bight can then be used to attach the rope to something (e.g., an anchor).

The double bowline (see Fig. 60-4) is preferred for rescue over the less secure single bowline (see Fig. 60-3).

A figure-8 on a bight (see Fig. 60-5) creates a preformed loop, so it will only function if you can clip into the loop (e.g., with a carabiner).

The figure-8 on a bight is probably the single knot every potential rescue worker should know. Climbers and rescue personnel across the world use it. It is strong and easy to undo when loaded. It can be tied directly into a bight (see Fig. 60-5), or it may be tied as a retrace (or follow-through) (see Fig. 60-6). It is easy to tell when it has been tied correctly by quick visual inspection.

Midline Knots

These knots are used to form loops in the middle of a rope. They are used for clipping into, grasping, or bypassing a piece of damaged rope. A figure-8 on a bight may be used (see Fig. 60-5). In addition, the following knots can be used:

Knots to Join Two Ropes

The overhand bend (Fig. 60-10) is functional, simple and easy to tie, but not secure enough for rescue.

The double fisherman’s bend (Fig. 60-11) is an excellent knot for joining ropes of equal diameter.

The double-sheet bend (Fig. 60-12) is an excellent knot for joining ropes of unequal diameter.

The single-sheet bend (Fig. 60-13) is less secure than the double-sheet bend.

The figure-8 bend (Fig. 60-14) is a reasonable choice if tied with the rope ends exiting from opposite ends of the bend. Do not tie it as in Figure 60-15.

The ring bend (Fig. 60-16) is the ideal knot for joining flat or tubular webbing. It is also used to tie loops of webbing (runners).

Knot Safety

Every knot should be checked (preferably by someone other than the person who tied it) to ensure that it is tied properly, and should be monitored at intervals thereafter. Many knots have a tendency to loosen, and some can even change forms (e.g., into a slipknot).

A safety knot can help prevent mishaps. A safety knot is an overhand knot (see Fig. 60-2) tied into the tail of the rope after a knot is tied. The safety knot is placed to keep the original knot from deforming or unraveling.

Hitches (Figs. 60-17 to 60-20)

Hitching is a method of tying a rope around itself or an object in such a way that the object is integral to the support of the hitch. Hitches are seldom used in rescue and should be considered for use only by a skilled technician, because there may be severe consequences when a hitch comes untied or does not perform as intended. Disintegration of a hitch results in immediate release of whatever load it is holding.

Additional Knots and Hitches

(Figs. 60-21 to 60-24)