Emergency Veterinary Medicine

Published on 14/03/2015 by admin

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63

Emergency Veterinary Medicine

Wild animals may stalk support animals. Wild (and occasionally domestic) animals are most likely to respond adversely if:

Emergency Restraint

Know how to create a halter tie (Fig. 63-1) and a temporary rope halter (Fig. 63-2).

For horses, mules, and burros, if the animal is down and entangled in rope, wire, or bushes, approach it from its back and keep the head held down until it can be extricated. Stay out of reach of the fore and hind limbs. If the animal is standing, stand close to the left shoulder. If examining the feet and legs of a standing animal, keep your head above the lower body line to avoid having the animal reach forward and strike with a rear limb. You can “ear” the animal by grasping one or both ears. Stand at the left shoulder and grasp the halter or lead rope with the left hand. Place the right hand palm down with the fingers together and the thumb extended, on top of the neck. Slide the hand up the neck until the thumb and fingers surround the base of the ear. Squeeze tightly, but do not twist the ear. Be prepared to move with the horse while maintaining a firm grip.

For llamas, one or two people should stand on the side opposite any limb to be lifted, or the animal should be placed next to a tree or large rock to prevent it from moving away. The limb should be firmly grasped. If a llama refuses to get up, the rear limbs may be pulled out behind it. If it still refuses to rise, an injury or illness should be suspected. Llamas can be “eared” in a manner similar to that used for horses. Control spitting by draping a cloth over the animal’s nose and tucking the top around the nose piece of the halter.

For dogs, if a mild painful medical procedure must be performed, the head and mouth should be secured. The dog’s body can be securely held against the handler’s body by reaching across the back of the dog and grasping the base of the neck while pulling the opposite shoulder with the elbow toward the handler. The other hand should tuck the dog’s head under the handler’s arm. Alternatively, a muzzle can be constructed from a nylon cord or even a shoelace. A loop should be formed with an overhand knot on one side. The loop is placed over the muzzle of the dog, with the knot on top, and tightened. The ends of the loop should be wrapped around the muzzle, crossed beneath the jaw, and tied behind the ears.

Conditions Common to All Species

Foot, Hoof, and Nail Problems

Foot and limb trauma is accompanied by varying degrees of lameness (limping). It may be difficult to establish which leg is painful, but the principles are similar to evaluation of such pain in humans, with the obvious differences of two extra limbs to evaluate and the animal’s inability to communicate.

Cellulitis may develop on the limbs or body. The signs include heat, swelling, and redness and are the same in all species, as is therapy.

Therapy for foot injuries includes providing drainage of infected lesions, disinfection, and protection of exposed sensitive structures. Antibiotics are not indicated for most wounds unless a joint surface is exposed. It may be necessary to bandage the foot to provide protection while in camp and to fashion special shoes or boots to keep an animal functioning on the trail. Special booties are available commercially for dogs, but a temporary moccasin may be constructed from soft leather (such as the leather used by crafts people to make moccasins) or duct tape.

Hyperthermia (Heat Stress, Heat Exhaustion)

Clinical Signs

Signs may vary according to species and the stage of hyperthermia, but all affected animals have increased heart and respiratory rates, usually accompanied by open-mouth breathing. Rectal temperatures may vary from 41.1° C to 43.3° C (106° F to 110° F). Horses, mules, burros, and llamas sweat in the early stages of hyperthermia, but sweating may cease if the animal becomes severely dehydrated. Sweating is evident in horses but imperceptible in llamas because most sweating occurs on the ventral abdomen in what is known as the thermal window, where the fibers are less dense and the fiber length is short.

Dogs cool themselves by evaporation of respiratory fluids while panting. The mouth is held open, and the tongue lolls from the mouth. The respiratory rate increases from a normal of 30 breaths/min up to 200 to 400 breaths/min. Moisture may be observed dripping from the tongue. As dehydration intensifies, salivation and dripping may slow or cease.

Hypotension causes hypoxemia of the brain, resulting in dullness, restlessness, and incoordination. Hypoxemia may lead to convulsions and collapse. The shift of blood from the gastrointestinal tract may cause decreased motility and the potential for ileus and tympany. Signs of colic in horses and llamas (kicking at the belly, looking back at the side, treading, attempting to lie down and roll) may be noted.

Tick Paralysis

Skunk Odor Removal

In addition to the obvious odor, skunk musk is nauseating to some people and may also cause retching in dogs. If a person or pet is sprayed in the face, the musk is an irritant that causes conjunctivitis, keratitis, lacrimation, temporary impairment of vision, glossitis, slobbering, and foaming at the mouth.

Management of Odor Removal

Quick flushing of the face and eyes with copious quantities of cold water will restore vision and minimize persistent irritation. If conjunctivitis persists, instill contact lens solution or a drop of olive oil into the conjunctival sac.

The objective of odor removal is to wash away the offending oily liquid and neutralize the compound. Simple bathing will not completely eliminate the odor, which is pungent in a remarkably dilute concentration.

One of the most effective oxidizing agents is a dilute solution of household bleach (Clorox); however, this may bleach clothing and hair and is harsh on the skin of people and animals. Skunk musk is alkaline, so mild acidic solutions may be at least partially effective and will reduce the pungency of the odor. Tomato juice, white vinegar, and ammonia in water have been described but may not completely eliminate the odor.

A formula that is mentioned most frequently is a combination of hydrogen peroxide (347 mL, 3%), water (1 cup [237 mL]), baking soda (sodium bicarbonate, image cup [60 mL]), and a dish detergent (1 tablespoon [15 mL]). Mix the peroxide with the water, and then add the baking soda and shampoo. Mix and pour into a squirt bottle/sprayer. This solution may be sprayed onto a dog or horse but should not be sprayed directly into the eyes or nose. The solution should be allowed to remain on the coat for 10 minutes, while being worked into the coat with a gloved hand.

Washable clothing should be washed with a strong soap or heavy-duty detergent. In a permanent camp, items that cannot be washed (shoes, leather goods) may be buried in sandy soil for a few days. The soil will adsorb the odorous chemicals.

A number of commercial products are available that have been formulated to completely eliminate the skunk odor:

All of the products mentioned are for use on pets or fabric and not recommended for use directly on people. The trek physician is the only one qualified to make such a recommendation. However, washing with soap and copious amounts of cold water will wash away considerable musk.

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